This popular Anatolian kebab, çöp şiş, is traditionally made with lamb scraps – çöp means rubbish – that are flavoured with onion, cumin and garlic and chargrilled on swords or skewers. The small pieces of cooked meat are then wrapped in freshly griddled flat bread with red onion, flat leaf parsley and a squeeze of lemon – like a modern wrap.
Grate the onions on to a plate, sprinkle with the salt and leave them to weep for about 15 minutes. Place a strainer over a large bowl, add in the onions and press down with the back of a wooden spoon in order to extract the onion juice. Discard the onions left in the sieve, then mix the garlic and cumin seeds into the onion juice and toss in the lamb. Cover and leave the lamb to marinate for three to four hours.
Meanwhile, prepare the dough for the flat breads. Sift the flours and salt together into a large bowl. Make a well in the middle and gradually add the water, drawing in the flour from the sides. Using your hands, knead the dough until firm and springy – if it is at all sticky, add more flour.
Divide the dough into 24 pieces and knead each one into a ball. Place on a floured surface and cover with a damp cloth. Leave to rest for 45 minutes while you get the barbecue ready.
Just before cooking, roll each ball of dough into a wide, thin circle. Dust each circle with flour so they don’t stick together, and keep them covered until required with a damp dish towel to prevent them drying out.
Thread the meat on to flat kebab swords or metal skewers. Cook the kebabs on the barbecue for two to three minutes on each side.
At the same time, cook the flat breads on a hot griddle or other flat pan, flipping them over as they begin to go brown and buckle. Pile up on a plate.
Slide the meat on to the flat breads. Sprinkle onion and parsley over each pile and squeeze lemon juice over the top. Wrap the breads into parcels and eat with your hands.
Recipe excerpted from The Turkish Cookbook (Lorenz Books, 2021), with permission from the publisher.