The Other Side Of The Cork: Cantina Giuliano – From Paris Via London To Tuscany

Categories: Kosher Wines

Yael E. Geller August 14, 2024

Italian kosher wines continue to proliferate on the shelves and in wine clubs around the kosher world. For a long time, French, Israeli, and American wineries were the first choice for kosher-adhering consumers. However, there has been a significant increase in the production of kosher Italian wines from some of the finest wineries across the entire region. I have previously written about Terra di Seta winery in Tuscany as one of the original kosher wineries producing award-winning wines. Another recently established winery that is becoming a popular choice and tourist destination is Cantina Giuliano.

Cantina Giuliano’s story is as romantic as any burgeoning winery’s tale could be. A young, attractive couple falls in love, discovers their passion for wine, and strengthens their connection to Judaism through wine and the spiritual realms it encompasses. As we have discussed numerous times, wine accompanies our people through rituals and life cycles that follow Jews throughout their lives and the calendar year. It might sound cliché, but I am still going to tell you all about Eli and Lara Gauthier.

Eli and Lara met while studying at university in London. Eli hails from Paris and Lara from the Tuscan countryside, and though they did not initially realize that wine was a shared passion, Eli confessed to me when I first met him many years ago that it had become his passion since meeting Lara. The Gauthiers continued to develop their relationship, eventually marrying in Israel and settling in London. Eli worked in a market selling wine and conducting tastings, which bolstered the flame lit by his relationship with a native Tuscan. This led him to explore his passion further by enrolling in a winemaking course in Strasbourg, France. He eventually obtained a winemaking degree and a job producing wine in one of the numerous local (non-kosher) wineries the famous wine region had to offer.

The story takes an obvious turn: Eli realized there was a significant lack of kosher wines from Italy. At the time, a few wineries were producing kosher wines, but it was nothing compared to the number coming from France, California, and, of course, Israel. More variety allows consumers to learn and choose how to drink their wines. The opportunity presented itself in 2014, when Lara’s parents allowed them to experiment in the extra space in their small Tuscan garage. Production in their boutique winery began in 2014 with a single Chianti, progressively scaling up. In 2017, a mere three years later, they were able to open a dairy restaurant to attract more visitors to their winery and the region.

After the first harvest, Eli and Lara welcomed their son and decided to stay in Strasbourg to provide him with a Jewish education and environment, which was not available in Tuscany. Eli now divides his time between France and Italy, spending from Pesach to Sukkot in Tuscany to oversee wine production and manage the tourism and culinary business. The winemaking process is concentrated in September and October, after which Eli returns to Strasbourg to study in Kollel and manage the business from afar. He still makes monthly trips to Italy for essential winemaking tasks like racking, filtering, bottling, and blending.

Tuscany’s diverse terroir is a mosaic of soil types, microclimates, and elevations, all contributing to the distinctiveness of its wines. The region is characterized by its hilly, picturesque terrain that we are all familiar with when we imagine rolling Tuscan hills or even check it out on Google. This climate and terrain provide excellent drainage and varying sun exposures, which are optimal for the varietal grapes the region is famous for. The soils range from clay and limestone in Chianti to sandy and volcanic in other areas, each imparting unique flavors and qualities to the grapes. The Mediterranean climate, with hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters, ensures a long growing season, allowing grapes to develop to full ripeness potential.

Chianti, made primarily from Sangiovese grapes, is perhaps the most famous type of wine made in Tuscany. A “young” Chianti Primizie was the first wine Cantina Giuliano had to produce and get ‘right’ to solidify their success. Chianti comes in varying levels of quality and barrel aging, producing robust yet elegant wines showcasing notes of cherries, leather, and earth. Cantina Giuliano now offers several other wines, including Rosato, Vermentino, Merlot from Campagna, Cabernet, Chianti Primizie, a Super Tuscan blend, and Sweet V. The flagship wine, also a blend, is called A Mano, which translates to “handmade.” This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc is fermented in oak barrels with manual punch-downs and aged for 18 months in French oak, resulting in a rich and lush mouthfeel.

The winery has grown significantly since its modest inception. Starting with a few thousand bottles of Chianti, the production has expanded ten-fold to 120,000 bottles annually, with eight types of wine ranging from lighter, fruit-forward reds to richer, barrel-aged blends, rosé, whites, and now dessert wines. The Sweet V, made from prized Vermentino grapes, is a low-alcohol, slightly frizzante, fruity hit. Eli and Lara are also excited about a new, more traditional Tuscan dessert wine, Vin Santo, which will be exclusively available at their restaurant.

The labels certainly stand out and tell the story of the Gauthier family and the Tuscan countryside. The first Chianti label features a photo of Lara’s father, 18 years old, carrying a 10-liter bottle of wine on a school trip, symbolizing friendship, traditional Italian wine culture, and passion for wine. Subsequent labels focus on the essence of Tuscany, avoiding clichés and old-school imagery.

Wine tourism in Tuscany offers an immersive experience, and with the addition of more kosher options, it has become a popular place for kosher-keeping tourists to vacation, especially in the summer months. Visitors can explore ancient vineyards, tour historic wine cellars, and engage with passionate winemakers like Eli and Lara. Cantina Giuliano’s restaurant and holiday offerings provide a fulfilling way to showcase an Italian lifestyle with a deep connection to the countryside.

Looking ahead, the Gauthiers are working on expanding their facilities, especially their tasting room, and increasing the winery’s capacity to meet consumer demand, which has continued to grow. They also aim to expand distribution and strengthen their presence in restaurants, offering catering services including bar mitzvahs and weddings.

We would be remiss not to mention the passion that drives this power couple to continue improving and producing. They both comment that the most fulfilling aspect is crafting a product used for pleasure and mitzvot. “Seeing friends make Kiddush on our wine for significant occasions is tremendously satisfying,” says Eli. “Celebrating the bottling of a new batch with our staff at the end of a long process is a cherished tradition.”

Near the conclusion of my interview with Eli and Lara, they gave some wine-pairing tips for some of their offerings, which I happily accepted as they are not exclusively fleishig. “For an ideal meal pairing,” says Eli, “I enjoy sea bass crudo with peaches and basil with our Vermentino, while my wife prefers duck confit with parsley potatoes paired with our Super Tuscan.” I would go with Lara’s suggestion for sure if I were visiting their restaurant. The wine region of Tuscany, with its rich history, diverse terroir, and the Gauthier family’s passion, continues to produce exceptional wines. From classic Chiantis to innovative blends, Tuscan wines offer a journey through tradition and innovation, making it a premier destination for wine enthusiasts, and I will drink to that! L’chaim!

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