When my kids were little (not very long ago), the afternoons stretched out and I’d join them on the floor — building Lego towers and erecting forts. I miss that stage more than I wished for it to pass. (Take note, young mothers, it flies by.) Play time was all day, and when dinner hour came along, I turned to easy, minimal recipes. This za’atar fish is nothing more than sprinkling some spices before the fish gets a short roast. We would eat it straight from the pan, flaking pieces of fish with our forks, swooping it into our mouths, like they were jet planes. The gremolata is a beautiful, fruity topping that adds brightness and contrast. I save it for when I’m particular about presentation. More often than not, I skip it, because some (many?) days, simplicity wins.
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