1. Season salmon ﬁllets lightly with salt and pepper to taste.
2. Starting with the thick end of each ﬁllet, roll into pinwheels. Secure each pinwheel with a toothpick or skewer.
3. In a medium skillet, combine wine (or water), the quarter-teaspoon salt, quarter-teaspoon pepper, and the bay leaf; bring to a boil. Add salmon. Return to boiling; reduce heat.
4. Simmer, covered, for six to eight minutes, turning once, until ﬁsh just ﬂakes easily with a fork.
5. Remove salmon from cooking liquid and chill for two to 12 hours. Discard cooking liquid. Remove toothpicks.