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Although it’s not as common as something like falafel, this kind of mixed grill is a street-food staple in the Machne Yehuda market in Jerusalem. The traditional dish would usually be made with chicken hearts, liver and spleen; spleen isn’t really available in the UK, so I’ve left it out and opted for duck hearts, which are plumper and have a gamier flavor that adds depth to the dish. Before opening Oren, I made this for a while at pop-ups and residencies, and it’s now become a permanent fixture on the restaurant menu as it’s so popular. Amba is a fermented mango condiment spiced with fenugreek, turmeric and chili. It originated in Iraq and was brought to Israel by Jewish Iraqis. You can find it online or in specialist stores. You only need a little, as it can be overpowering.
200 grams (7 ounces) boneless and skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-centimeter (1/2-inch) cubes
200 grams (7 ounces) duck (or chicken) hearts, halved and excess fat and blood removed
100 grams (3 and 1/2 ounces) chicken liver, cleaned, trimmed to remove connective tissues and cut into 1-centimeter (1/2-inch) cubes
1 teaspoon ground turmeric, such as Pereg
1 tablespoon Pereg Sweet Paprika
2 and 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin, such as Pereg
vegetable oil, for frying
2 medium onions, cut into 2-millimeter (1/16-inch)-thick slices
sea salt
4 pita breads
12 tablespoons Classic Tahini (recipe in the cookbook) or shop-bought
4 tablespoons amba
Combine all the meat and offal in a mixing bowl, add the ground spices and mix well. Store in the refrigerator for a few hours or overnight.
Take the meat out of the refrigerator a couple of hours before cooking. Heat a cast-iron flat griddle pan (skillet) over a high heat until it smokes, then add a drizzle of vegetable oil followed by the sliced onions. Cook the onions for three to five minutes until golden brown, transfer to a plate and heat the pan again until smoking. Add some oil, followed by some of the meat and offal, and spread it out evenly (do not try to cook all the meat at once – it is essential that meat is cooked evenly in a single layer). Cook the meat for six to seven minutes until the chicken thigh is no longer pink and all the meat is cooked through. Season with salt and then add the onions.
Cut open the edge of a pita to create a pocket, fill with two tablespoons of tahini and fill with some of the meats. Add another tablespoon of the tahini on top and a tablespoon of the amba. Eat immediately, preferably standing.
Excerpted with permission from Oren by Oded Oren, published by Hardie Grant, October 2022, RRP $40.00 Hardcover. Photography by Issy Croker. Purchase on Amazon
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